Fes, Morrocco…

After a morning of sipping mint tea, an attempt at haggling and a walk around a bright and sunny Chefchaouen we travelled for 4 hours by private mini van through fertile agricultural lands to the city of Fes. We passed through wheat growing areas and down into lower areas and wider river valleys. Fes is an old and important spiritual and learning centre with a new town and and ol town, the Medina. It is the largest in Morrocco, a labyrinth of alleyways, covered and uncovered with small stalls, repair places, herbalist, food places and people all living together. It covers over 7 acres and you would get seriously lost without a guide and you have no idea which direction is which…We visited a few places of note including the Palace gates, Jewish quarter and lookout before touring a ceramics factory. Then we entered the Medina and didn’t emerge for hours….amazing sights and also very sad and almost sickening sights e.g beggars, sick people and diseased cats, rubbish and rotten stench…but the fascinating prevails! Donkeys are used tor transport things,Camel and goats heads for sale at butchers who just hang the meat in the open, herbs, spices, junk, appliances, scarves, leather goods, sweets, breads, shoes, tourist tat, ceramics,carpets, woven good, jewellery , junk, clothes…an incredible array…lovely lunch in a beautiful restaurant that you would never imagine existed in the middle of it all. Dinner confirmed the morroccan menu is fairly standard..tagine,cous cous, kebabs, soup, salad. All good but not as flavoursome as I imagined. Had Casablanca beer which IImage was suprised about being a Muslim country. However, certain places do sell alcohol and wine is also made and sold here..I guess at restaurants and hotels mainly. ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage

Chefchaouen…Morrocco

IMG_0202IMG_0203IMG_3801IMG_3804IMG_3806IMG_3818IMG_3825IMG_3827DSC_0349IMG_3829IMG_3828IMG_0201Early morning Muslim call to prayer echoing across the valley, hill top mosque, almond trees, spectacular views of houses clinging to a hillside in various shades of blue and white with terracotta roofs, gushing mountain stream, narrow alleyways, men and women in traditional clothing, womens heads covered with scarves, blue and more blue, chickens, donkeys, tiny packed shops,  delicious tagine with prunes,almonds and beef, more mint tea, rugs and carpets, dried figs and dates, henna tattoos…IMG_0199

Morning in Jerez, Spain….afternoon in Morrocco, Africa…

IMG_3780Orientation walk around the city which is famous for its sherry production. Visited a sherry Bodega (winery) which I thought was boring until I tasted the actual sherry…absolutely beautiful…I’m guessing absolutely nothing like the McWilliams flagon sherry at home!??! Fortified, we took a bus through mountainous countryside to the busy, industrial port city of Algiceras where we could see the Rock of Gibraltar in the distance. Changed buses to arrive at the ferry port town of Tarifa and caught a large high speed passenger ferry for a rough crossing of the Gibraltar Straight to land in AFRICA at Tangier, Morrocco…very exciting. Complete change of culture immediately noticeable…busy, poor, third world, dirty  but so different and fascinating. 3 hour drive through mountainous countryside in a private transfer van. The agriculture is not mechanised, small plots and all worked manually however huge dams being built on the river. A long, winding journey finally led us into Chefchaouen a beautiful town spread across the mountainside with predominantly blue coloured houses. it was freezing cold and rainy but very exciting to be in such an unusual and fascinating culture so very different to our own. The hotel is just lovely and very morroccan in style. My room is set up high overlooking the whole town so I scored very well except for the “tepid” hot water. Wonderful morroccan feast of breads, salads, olives, vegetables, tagine, meat skewers and the sensational mint tea….sooo sweet!IMG_3781IMG_3783IMG_3784IMG_3788IMG_3789IMG_3796IMG_3795IMG_3797IMG_3799IMG_3800

Olhao to Jerez….

Early departure from Olhao on a bus to Seville in Spain. Passed through fertile countryside with citrus orchards. Arrived in Seville and stored our bags at the train station to take a whirlwind tour of the older part of the city. First stop at the oldest tapas bar with so much character…spinach, chickpeas and omlette washed down with Cruzcampo beer. Seville was quite lovely but cold and windy weather has struck. Flamenco dresses in the windows, shoes shoes shoes and streets lined with seville orange trees. Train to Jerez so a long travelling day! Checked into nice hotel and straight to dinner which was one of the nicest meals I have had so far…fillet of beef with cooked foie gras and vegetables in a sensational sauce. Finally got to bed…IMG_3756IMG_3758IMG_3757IMG_3762IMG_3764IMG_3768IMG_3769IMG_3771IMG_3775IMG_3774IMG_3776IMG_3777

Lisbon to Olhao, Portugal…

Bus to the Algarve region of Portugal to the coastal town of Olhao set in an estuary, back water area near the Atlantic Ocean. Checked into a lovely Pensione with antique portuguese furniture (and shared toilet!). Fresh fish for dinner. A noisy night though as the locals make Friday nights a big one. The best portuguese tart I have ever had and wandered the fresh produce and seafood market on the waterfront, buying ingredients for tonights salad and fish dinner consisting of “Dourada” or sea bream which the man gutted and scaled for me. The group then caught a local passenger ferry to the Island with a beach facing the Atlantic which was just beautiful. Freezing water but lovely sunshine and warmth. Settled in for a long lunch at the only restaurant and tried cuttlefish in black ink and grouper…both delicious. Everyone prepared dinner in the pensione kitchen and Jaime made a big bowl of his Sangria…ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImageIMG_3741IMG_3743IMG_3750IMG_3754IMG_3755IMG_3744IMG_3753

Azulejos…

IMG_3644IMG_3643IMG_3645IMG_3646the Portuguese tiling has fascinated me …ImageImage

Coimbra too Lisbon, capital of Portugal…

Train journey through countryside arriving at Hotel via Metro…more stairs!! “Orientation” took us through and older commercial area down to the Port which was large and busy. Many old buildings and lots of tiling…a lot more decay and shabbiness but such character. We climbed the hill slowly winding up the streets with a good vantage point to view the port and put things into perspective geographically. We ended at the St George Castle, now just beautiful ruins with the most magnificent panorama of Lisbon. Back down the hill and joined an Intepid Urban Adventure  sunset walking tour for 4 hours. Introduced us to Fado music, eating streets, Cherry brandy which is seriously nice, cod cakes, wine in the square and we ended up in a tiny Fado music bar for tapas and red vinho. Lisbon is famous for its sardines and that is what we were like…packed in! it as an amazing night life scene.IMG_3624IMG_3625IMG_3626IMG_3629IMG_3634IMG_3635IMG_3630IMG_3640IMG_3641

Coimbra nightlife…

Dinner tapas style at a lovely little bar ( gorgeously ‘retro’ style packed sardines lining the walls) followed by a very professional Fado concert in an old chapel….ImageImageImageImage

Coimbra, Portugal…

Explored Coimbra which is a University town and evidenced by students getting around in Academic gowns and holding some sorts of rites of passage on the streets. The old town area is filled with rustic buildings and the characteristic Azulejos, Portuguese tiling, which is very beautiful. So too are souvenirs and depictions of the Portuguese “Le Coq du Bonheur” or the rooster of luck and happiness. Rooster was also on the menu last night! Gorgeous weather and finally warm enough for short sleeves.  ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage

Salamanca…Castilla..Spain..

Finally have my luggage issues sorted and feeling so much happier!! “Little Olive” was purchased (on special!!) in Sol Madrid and is my new travelling companion. Dinner last night with Mal and Di from Hamilton in Victoria. Had drinks in the Mayoral Square which was bustling with people and dinner at a restaurant/bar with a view across the beautifully lit square. IMG_3567IMG_3565IMG_3566Wandered the streets this morning and then we had a private bus transfer to Coimbra in Portugal. Passed through a lot of spanish countryside, flat with wheat fields. Then, into granite country with boulders and then into river valleys with more vegetation and smaller plots of cultivation. Architecture seems to be white houses with red tiled roofs. Passed a lot of gum trees, some of which looked loke plantations. had our “orientation’ and it is certainly a character filled place. All dined together at the local Portuguese grill. Does anyone remember Mateus Rose??IMG_3579IMG_3581IMG_3583IMG_3586IMG_3593IMG_3594IMG_3595

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