Morning in Jerez, Spain….afternoon in Morrocco, Africa…

IMG_3780Orientation walk around the city which is famous for its sherry production. Visited a sherry Bodega (winery) which I thought was boring until I tasted the actual sherry…absolutely beautiful…I’m guessing absolutely nothing like the McWilliams flagon sherry at home!??! Fortified, we took a bus through mountainous countryside to the busy, industrial port city of Algiceras where we could see the Rock of Gibraltar in the distance. Changed buses to arrive at the ferry port town of Tarifa and caught a large high speed passenger ferry for a rough crossing of the Gibraltar Straight to land in AFRICA at Tangier, Morrocco…very exciting. Complete change of culture immediately noticeable…busy, poor, third world, dirty  but so different and fascinating. 3 hour drive through mountainous countryside in a private transfer van. The agriculture is not mechanised, small plots and all worked manually however huge dams being built on the river. A long, winding journey finally led us into Chefchaouen a beautiful town spread across the mountainside with predominantly blue coloured houses. it was freezing cold and rainy but very exciting to be in such an unusual and fascinating culture so very different to our own. The hotel is just lovely and very morroccan in style. My room is set up high overlooking the whole town so I scored very well except for the “tepid” hot water. Wonderful morroccan feast of breads, salads, olives, vegetables, tagine, meat skewers and the sensational mint tea….sooo sweet!IMG_3781IMG_3783IMG_3784IMG_3788IMG_3789IMG_3796IMG_3795IMG_3797IMG_3799IMG_3800

Olhao to Jerez….

Early departure from Olhao on a bus to Seville in Spain. Passed through fertile countryside with citrus orchards. Arrived in Seville and stored our bags at the train station to take a whirlwind tour of the older part of the city. First stop at the oldest tapas bar with so much character…spinach, chickpeas and omlette washed down with Cruzcampo beer. Seville was quite lovely but cold and windy weather has struck. Flamenco dresses in the windows, shoes shoes shoes and streets lined with seville orange trees. Train to Jerez so a long travelling day! Checked into nice hotel and straight to dinner which was one of the nicest meals I have had so far…fillet of beef with cooked foie gras and vegetables in a sensational sauce. Finally got to bed…IMG_3756IMG_3758IMG_3757IMG_3762IMG_3764IMG_3768IMG_3769IMG_3771IMG_3775IMG_3774IMG_3776IMG_3777

Azulejos…

IMG_3644IMG_3643IMG_3645IMG_3646the Portuguese tiling has fascinated me …ImageImage

Coimbra too Lisbon, capital of Portugal…

Train journey through countryside arriving at Hotel via Metro…more stairs!! “Orientation” took us through and older commercial area down to the Port which was large and busy. Many old buildings and lots of tiling…a lot more decay and shabbiness but such character. We climbed the hill slowly winding up the streets with a good vantage point to view the port and put things into perspective geographically. We ended at the St George Castle, now just beautiful ruins with the most magnificent panorama of Lisbon. Back down the hill and joined an Intepid Urban Adventure  sunset walking tour for 4 hours. Introduced us to Fado music, eating streets, Cherry brandy which is seriously nice, cod cakes, wine in the square and we ended up in a tiny Fado music bar for tapas and red vinho. Lisbon is famous for its sardines and that is what we were like…packed in! it as an amazing night life scene.IMG_3624IMG_3625IMG_3626IMG_3629IMG_3634IMG_3635IMG_3630IMG_3640IMG_3641

Coimbra nightlife…

Dinner tapas style at a lovely little bar ( gorgeously ‘retro’ style packed sardines lining the walls) followed by a very professional Fado concert in an old chapel….ImageImageImageImage

Coimbra, Portugal…

Explored Coimbra which is a University town and evidenced by students getting around in Academic gowns and holding some sorts of rites of passage on the streets. The old town area is filled with rustic buildings and the characteristic Azulejos, Portuguese tiling, which is very beautiful. So too are souvenirs and depictions of the Portuguese “Le Coq du Bonheur” or the rooster of luck and happiness. Rooster was also on the menu last night! Gorgeous weather and finally warm enough for short sleeves.  ImageImageImageImageImageImageImageImage

Salamanca…Castilla..Spain..

Finally have my luggage issues sorted and feeling so much happier!! “Little Olive” was purchased (on special!!) in Sol Madrid and is my new travelling companion. Dinner last night with Mal and Di from Hamilton in Victoria. Had drinks in the Mayoral Square which was bustling with people and dinner at a restaurant/bar with a view across the beautifully lit square. IMG_3567IMG_3565IMG_3566Wandered the streets this morning and then we had a private bus transfer to Coimbra in Portugal. Passed through a lot of spanish countryside, flat with wheat fields. Then, into granite country with boulders and then into river valleys with more vegetation and smaller plots of cultivation. Architecture seems to be white houses with red tiled roofs. Passed a lot of gum trees, some of which looked loke plantations. had our “orientation’ and it is certainly a character filled place. All dined together at the local Portuguese grill. Does anyone remember Mateus Rose??IMG_3579IMG_3581IMG_3583IMG_3586IMG_3593IMG_3594IMG_3595

Casapatas flamenco en vivo and Restaurant Botin, Madrid…

IMG_3496IMG_3534IMG_3541IMG_3526IMG_3546IMG_0170IMG_0176IMG_0175IMG_0172IMG_0178IMG_0184IMG_0185IMG_0174IMG_0191The flamenco was just incredible, captivating, passionate and totally engrossing….it was at a little club at the back of a restaurant so an amazing atmosphere. Afterwards we dined at Restaurant Botin which has been operating since 1725. We were privileged to receive a tour of the “house” and were led through packed diners to the cellar full of incredibly dusty wine, 3 floors of restaurant which was packed to the brim of Spaniards. It was my first 11pm dinner reservation so I feel very spanish now. They still have ‘siesta” where businesses close for lunch anywhere between 1:30pm and 4pm. We farewelled Jaime our tour leader and agreed to meet for one last breakfast of chocolate churros in the morning.

San Sebastian to Segovia…

Spent a glorious, sunny, blue sky day in San Sebastian walking the promenade to take the Funicular up the mountain. Spectacular view! More pintos before a city bus and 5 hour train trip to Segovia in central Spain. The topography was quite amazing as we left the coastal mountains and coniferous vegetation to pass through wide valleys and rolling hills. The country is drier and every inch used for cereal crops, mainly wheat as far as I can tell. The Spanish infrastructure is excellent..trains, great looking roads, power lines, loads of wind turbines, solar farms and industrial estates. It doesn’t appear that the economy is hurting in this regard!. However, the people in the towns, even in rural areas, live in apartment blocks which don’t look that fab. Its all so”spanish” though. Villages with stone churches with bells atop…just like in the old western movies! We arrived at about 10pm in the dark and bussed to our ‘Hostal’ in the older section of the city. Quick spanish hamburgers and the local soft drink before collapsing into bed.ImageImageImageImageImage

Bordeaux to Luchon….

Leaving bordeaux we travelled by train for 3 hours towards the french Pyrenees, followed by another train  and bus. The second train was the venue for another picnic lunch thrown together quite remarkably and managing to be really gourmet actually! The topography changed from flat gravel plains into rolling green hills and rushing rivers backed by the snow capped mountain range called the Pyrenees whcih divides France from SpainIMG_3323IMG_3331IMG_3335IMG_3341IMG_3343. Luchon is a village at the base of the Pyreees or ‘French Alps” nestled in a valley with spectacular alpine scenery. The weather has changed dramatically and the 2 days were sunny with blue skies and balmy spring air. The air is clear and trees are budding, streams gushing with snow melt and flowers adding colour and vibrancy. The main street is lined with shops and restaurants and has a spectacular backdrop of snow clad peaks.  We had a beautiful morning walk through the valley to a waterfall and then went to soak on the thermal pool. The complex had a vaporarium which was very unique in that it was in a large, steaming cave with pathways and seats to sit on and soak up the heat. I followed my experience with a hyrdomassage bath in which I couldn’t stop laughing as the place was so old fashioned and clinical… it was really nice though. We dined out both nights and celebrated our last night in France with a flute (plastic) of Moet of course. We are all dying for salad and vegetables as the french food is all rich. The markets are full of lovely fresh produce but is hasn’t appeared on the menus during the whole week we have been here…lettuce, a tiny slice of tomato, maybe green beans and potato done a hundred ways. We have taken to the “supermarche” to get salad and fruit as best we can.

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