pinkbirdflies

Set of on a considerable journey to Ullapool, a lovely harbour town where the ferry to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis is based. Found a pretty stone beach near Rhue lighthouse and then the incredible, narrow slot gorge of Corrieshalloch which was breathtaking from the suspension bridge. A missed turn meant we got to see Rogie Falls in the rain..so Scottish..and flowing nicely although we did not see any salmon leaping upstream unfortunately. Passed through a lot of country today and realised how remote parts of the world still are.

After coffee we went to the Lochcarron Weavers, purveyors of all things authentically tartan including kilts and traditional Scottish wear. Found that the Mackenzie Tartan is available in Weathered, Ancient and Modern. Preferring the weathered (based on traditional, naturally obtained dyes) I ordered a family sash and of course acquired some other bits and pieces. The tiny kilts and skirts were so cute…as was the Beatrix Potter tartan.

Explored the ruins of Strome Castle…just so picturesque…before a good walk around Gracie’s Cottage and Loch Kishorn. The prolific growth of the seaweeds is amazing and the 6 metre tidal range allows for great exploration of the pebbly, rocky seaweed lined shores.

Left the Isle of Skye and headed to the mainland to see the iconic and much photographed Eilean Donan Castle which was very pretty. Drove through more fertile and wooded country to the picture postcard village of Plockton (where Hamish Macbethh was filmed!) where the sun came out and we had a lovely afternoon exploring the village and going on a boat trip personally skippered and hosted by Callum (there were 3 of us on the whole boat) to see the seals on the loch. We managed to spot the elusive otter and Callum was very excited! We continued driving through gorgeous scenery following the edge of Loch Carron and through a high pass with a waterfall to Loch Kishorn and the hamlet of Archintraid where we settled into Gracies Cottage. Magnificent views across the Loch to the Bealach Na Ba, an impressive range constantly changing in moods with the sunshine, clouds, shadows and rain. Stunning!

Haggis is just lovely, especially when served with Neeps (turnip) and Tatties (mashed potato). Uig Pub did a stack in whiskey sauce which was just delicious and at Cawdor Pub I just ordered it by itself and it was yummy. Even had haggis nachos  and haggis flavoured potato chips. Ate a lot of fish and chips with peas (whole ones in Scotland) …Cod and Halibut featured mostly. The chips were always hand cut and the best you can have…must be the variety of potatoes they have here. The cafe in Lochcarron served them with everything, even curry and sweet and sour! Venison was delicious as they have a lot of wild Red Deer here..casseroled and in sausages! An Angus beef burger in Devon was to die for.

I tried Langoustines at Carbost but they were hard to get open..asked how to shell them in the end! I tried the smoked salmon roulade only because a chef at the pub generously brought it out for me to try…but did buy some local hot smoked salmon which was actually delicious. Stornoway black pudding is the premier brand and I had a taste sensation at a little cafe on the Black Isle with a wrap of black pudding, apple sauce and bacon!

Dove to Stein on the Waternish Peninsula and had a coffee at the pub and look in the craft shop as the weather was truly Scottish. Kept driving to Uig for a pub lunch of Haggis, neeps and tatties with whiskey sauce, and then into the wilds of the high moors of The Quiraing which looked bleak and desolate but also beautiful in the misty fog and rain. The Quiraing gives way suddenly to a steep precipice and winding descent to the coast near Staffin. Further along the road was the sheer drop of Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls and the famous Old man O f Storr which we attempted to walk up to but abandoned due to misty conditions and soft, very wet rain!!! I managed to get a glimpse of the ‘old man’ rock formation through the mist in one photo. Home to Portnalong where a beautiful sunset finished the day…although it doesnt get really dark at all.

Drove to the Sleat Peninsular which was more fertile and somewhat lush in contrast to the Cuillin Hills. Armadale Casle, now a ruin, was the seat of Clan Donald and commanded views across to the mainland. Had a pub lunch at a cute little place, Isleornsay, then followed the road out to Elgol around the shores of Loch Slapin. Here the views of the Red and Black Cuillins really were astounding and the difference in the rock types very noticeable. On the way home I had my first encounter with the Highland cattle, peering through their long fringes over the edge of the escarpment. They really are lovely!

Drove through the stunning landscape to Devegan Castle, seat of the Macleod Clan and took a little wooden boat to the seal colony which was a highlight..many newborn seals and an adorable one with milk dribbling from his wee mouth! Continued along the shore of Loch Dunvegan and walked out to the Claigan beaches made of crushed corallinre seaweed which makes them white in appearance…unfortunately a little too cool for a swim so drove to the furtherest point west on the Isle and walked out to Neist Point Lighthouse. Spectacular cliff views, sheep and a steep climb gave the old bum and thighs a bit of a work out!

Ventured across to the town of Portree only to be rained out and retreated to the Old Inn at Carbost for lunch and then a tour of the Talisker Whiskey distillery where I had a wee dram of Talisker Skye….love it! The sun came out on Loch Harport and the tide was going out, exposing the prolific seaweeds that grow on the shores of the Scottish sea lochs.

Drove through Inverness and was thrilled to see the iconic Loch Ness where we took a 2 hour cruise on the peat stained waters to the ruins of Urquhart Castle which we clambered all over in beautiful and rare scottish sunshine.

Continuing on towards the Isle of Sky we passed through some amazing and stunning mountain scenery, water streaming down mountainsides and gushing streams before rounding a corner to see our first sea loch. We drove over the bridge from the mainland to the Isle of Sky constantly being wowed by the incredible scenery of the bare, rocky, majestic peaks of the Red and Black Cuillins, seah lochs, villages with white houses and more water pouring off surfaces and running and cascading into the waterfalls, rivulets, little streams and rivers and then into the sea. We eventually found our way to the Minginish area of Skye and through the village of Carbost to the hamlet of Portnalong where we discovered how great our accommodation in Mungos Den was…a mix of modern with eco/vintage chic…cosy, comfortable and totally cute!

We headed to the local pub for dinner…right across the road…we had a view of it from the front door. Interesting place with Iain the barman who eventually cracked a smile for us, an incredible Scottish Gin list (discovered Caorunn with Fevertree Tonic and sliced apple) and more sausage dog stuff!